No pops an bangs evo 7 ecu

[sgt_pepper]

Have an evo 7 ecu in my 4 and have been trying to get some pops and bangs to no avail. I've put in the various als/negative timing values posted on here but still nothing. Have got 7 injectors, walbro 255, stainless decat exhaust, boost @ 1.3 bar.

Here is my current map:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/sgt_peppr/EuanRomPic.jpg

I even tried cleaning the SAS valve and checking the pipework but no problems there. Is there anything else I can change to get it? I also wondered if it's possible to get flames on overrun by changing any values?

Any help muchos appreciatos

[starkers]

Euan, put the settings back to what i had them at...i.e.

24 kph
50 celcius
3000 units
100 units
2 s
2 s
45 units
12 s
0.1 s
0.1 s
5 s

Also i have sent you a text about your map....no wonder it's knocking like mad! you haven't altered the load scalings to 260!!!:eek:

Scott

[Jones the boost]

Similarly I was also playing with pops/bangs yesterday on a 6 GSR and by going up to load values of 30 I wasnt having much luck but as soon as I went up to 40, bingo.

We were were getting some whilst changing gear on WOT at about 6.5k and then on over run with a little light feathering of the throttle.

I didnt adjust any of the ALS values either which makes me think there's scope for a lot more :smile:

[sgt_pepper]

Cool, thanks scott. I have altered the scalings to 260 and have put in those ALS settings. Just going outside to test it now.

Are there any other settings you can recommend to play around with to try and get some popping?

[sgt_pepper]

Ok so only has minimal knock now, thanks scott. But no luck with the pops and bangs. This is what it's at just now:

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b37/sgt_peppr/EuanRom.jpg

Could there be a further problem with the sas? Does it have a solenoid or something that controls it that could be faulty?

[HermaN]

SAS valve could be stuck?? Have heard of it happening, and simply removing the SAS and manually freeing it seems to solve the problem.

[todd]

did you change the ign retard limit

[jamie_v1]

Have you swapped pins 6 and 53 around when the ecu change was done

[starkers]

SAS valve could be stuck?? Have heard of it happening, and simply removing the SAS and manually freeing it seems to solve the problem.
Had him do this yesterday but all is free mate:smile:

did you change the ign retard limit
Retard limit is set to 203 = -10*:>

Have you swapped pins 6 and 53 around when the ecu change was done

Pin has been swapped over Jamie but still no cigar!


I've been speaking to Euan over the phone and helping him along with his mapping and the good old 'pops and bangs'

I had a an E7 ecu and the ALS setting worked fine....anyway... I've noticed that there are 2 types of E7 ecu being the MR560648 and MN132623.

I had the MN prefix ecu where Euan has the MR prefix one. I have noticed that there are some who cannot get the ALS settings to work properly on there E7 ecu's and through a bit of researching all the ones (that i have come across) that cannot get it to work have been using the MR prefix ecu....coincidence??? maybe, maybe not... Could there be aany possibilty that for some reason the MR one does not support it:confused1:

Scott

[todd]

try it set to 255

[sgt_pepper]

I had a Blitz dump valve fitted to the car and have read it can make a difference so took it off today and blanked the pipes off. But still no pops :confused1:

Really hope it's not because of the type of e7 ecu :unsure:

Todd do you mean try setting the Timing Retard Limit to 255?

[todd]

ive mr560648 in mine no probs with als

[starkers]

ive mr560648 in mine no probs with als

Well bang goes that theory then:lol:
(Excuse the pun:blushing:)

[sponners]

the mr 7 ecu is the more popular one and loads use it with success (I have the mr 7 ecu in mine)


there is a solenoid that you can check behind the inlet manifold and also a vacuum canister that can be checked for leaks.

[sponners]

just thought, have you drilled out the banjo bolts in the exhaust manifold to approx 6mm?

[todd]

Todd do you mean try setting the Timing Retard Limit to 255?

yep

[sgt_pepper]

Tried changing the retard limit to 255 and Scott gave me some more aggressive als settings and got some popping on overrun when feathering the throttle. Am going to chnage the retard limit back to 203 and see if it's this that has made the difference or not.

I have the standard sas banjo bolts on my manifold, will have a look for the cannister and solenoid tuesday night.

Thanks for all the help, glad to get some results even if only mild popping.

[sgt_pepper]

So I drilled out the SAS bolts to 5.5mm and there is still just mild popping, the odd bang when on overrun from say 6000rpm in third.

Any suggestions to get some banging at lower revs? :confused1:

[AndyF]

Check that the SAS valve is opening when you apply a voltage to it. It *might* be a wiring issue with the pin swapping over.

Andy

[sgt_pepper]

Ok thanks, is there a simple way of applying a voltage across it? Can I take a feed from the battery and just apply it straight to the solenoid?

[sgt_pepper]

Ok so I'm getting 0.1 volts with engine on at the plug for the sas solenoid and 0v with the engine off. SO I'm guessing that it's getting juice to it and the wiring is all fine.

Still only getting pops/bangs on overrun at high revs when feathering the throttle though :confused1:

Is there a way of modifying injector duty so that it goes up dramatically when on overrun and throttle position is 0 and revs are above 2 krpm so above idling speed? A friend has this on Subaru although his was mapped with a power fc.

[LanEvoVII]

I think this is the bov.. Is an atmo? or recirculation bov?

Can you put the oem? ;)

[todd]

you should have 12v to the red /yellow wire at the sas solenoid , disconnected with ign on ,then between the other wire (brown)and pin 6 at the ecu no resistance