Evoscan dropping logging connection?

[youngsyr]

When logging with Evoscan it quite often drops the connection to the ECU and automatically re-initialises to restart the log.

This wouldn't be so bad, but it seems to happen exactly as I go for a WOT run, i.e. precisely when I want it to log (I've lost count of the times I've done a logging run at ridiculous speeds only to not have a log to show for it afterwards :angry: :rolleyes: ).

I originally thought it was a loose connection with either my LC-1 or the Tactrix cable as I log with my laptop on the passenger seat held in by the seatbelt, but I tried it today in an Evo VII, without the LC-1 and with the laptop sitting on my lap (I was a passenger!) and it did exactly the same.

It seems to be fine logging normal part throttle runs, but as soon as you give it the beans it drops the connection. Can anyone please tell me what the problem is and how to fix it? :thumbup1:

[MADMAT]

What version are you running? Ive got the same problem (V2.6) running on Vista. Ive tried two different cables (1.3)
Very annoying. :mad:

[Technoprisoners]

i use to have a similar problem...turned out my battery wasnt the best and the voltage was dropping....now im new to all this so i could be miles off

[youngsyr]

i use to have a similar problem...turned out my battery wasnt the best and the voltage was dropping....now im new to all this so i could be miles off

Interesting, how did you find out it was the battery? Is there a way you can check?

Also, why does it only drop the connection when you are on fully open throttle? :confused:

[youngsyr]

What version are you running? Ive got the same problem (V2.6) running on Vista. Ive tried two different cables (1.3)
Very annoying. :mad:

I'm running quite a recent version (last few months) on an IBM Thinkpad with Windows XP.

[MADMAT]

i use to have a similar problem...turned out my battery wasnt the best and the voltage was dropping....now im new to all this so i could be miles off

Yeah the car i was in today has a weak battery, and the VI i was looking at yesterday (Both race batteries) mmmm...

[youngsyr]

i use to have a similar problem...turned out my battery wasnt the best and the voltage was dropping....now im new to all this so i could be miles off

Yeah the car i was in today has a weak battery, and the VI i was looking at yesterday (Both race batteries) mmmm...


Light bulb moment! My car battery is also not the best, I thought Technoprisoners was talking about the laptop battery! :blushing: :lol:

Anyway, I'm not sure if there was any problem with the battery on the Evo VII I was looking at today? :confused1:

[huwjones]

Interesting, how did you find out it was the battery? Is there a way you can check?

Also, why does it only drop the connection when you are on fully open throttle? :confused:

Get a voltmeter on your 12v supply and go for a blast. Use a meter with good quality recording (Fluke are the best I've used) or alternatively use an analogue meter, reason being, it might be a momentary dip which you/the meter might not be able to see.

When you're at full throttle or generally heavy load, all the electrics are working harder and hence drawing more current. Poor quality cabling will drop voltage as the amperage goes up (less than ideal cable diameter can also cause this). A weak battery will only add to this problem. Many cars have 'less than ideal' wiring specs, hence the use of earthing kits.

[youngsyr]

Get a voltmeter on your 12v supply and go for a blast. Use a meter with good quality recording (Fluke are the best I've used) or alternatively use an analogue meter, reason being, it might be a momentary dip which you/the meter might not be able to see.

When you're at full throttle or generally heavy load, all the electrics are working harder and hence drawing more current. Poor quality cabling will drop voltage as the amperage goes up (less than ideal cable diameter can also cause this). A weak battery will only add to this problem. Many cars have 'less than ideal' wiring specs, hence the use of earthing kits.

To be honest I wouldn't be surprised if it was the battery, I've had a bit of trouble with flat batteries from lack of use recently.

The question is, short of fitting a new, larger battery, how do I solve the problem? :confused:

[huwjones]

If your current battery is suspect, then always start with that. A new battery shouldn't cost you much over £50 and then you know it's good (unless it's faulty!). Start simple, worry about the rest afterwards!

Other alternative you may want to try is to take it to a local car battery 'specialist' - some have testers that can check the health of your battery. Best test you can perform on a battery is a shunt test. This effectively shorts out the battery, enabling you to see how well it performs under max load.

Oh, talking of startiing simple - I've forgotten to ask if you've checked your battery water level! Some batteries are sealed (but vented), in which case, you can't check. If there are six holes on top of your battery, unscrew the lids and see if the battery plates are completely immersed in water. If they aren't, pour in some de-ionised water until the plates are covered.

PLEASE wear rubber gloves and safety classes at the very least. Battery acid is seriously nasty stuff!

(And apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!)

[youngsyr]

If your current battery is suspect, then always start with that. A new battery shouldn't cost you much over £50 and then you know it's good (unless it's faulty!). Start simple, worry about the rest afterwards!

Other alternative you may want to try is to take it to a local car battery 'specialist' - some have testers that can check the health of your battery. Best test you can perform on a battery is a shunt test. This effectively shorts out the battery, enabling you to see how well it performs under max load.

Oh, talking of startiing simple - I've forgotten to ask if you've checked your battery water level! Some batteries are sealed (but vented), in which case, you can't check. If there are six holes on top of your battery, unscrew the lids and see if the battery plates are completely immersed in water. If they aren't, pour in some de-ionised water until the plates are covered.

PLEASE wear rubber gloves and safety classes at the very least. Battery acid is seriously nasty stuff!

(And apologies if I'm teaching you to suck eggs!)


Thanks for the advice, I hadn't actually thought to check the water level. I'm not overly keen to shell out on a new battery as I did so less than 12 months ago and I think deep cycling it just a couple of times has knocked the life out of it. I also can't guarantee the new one won't get deep cycled. :(

I had it tested at Halfrauds and it came back as 83% (of whatever they test) so it's ok, but it would seem not good enough to keep the logger happy. :(

[huwjones]

Hmm, 83% isn't too bad.

Where does the lambda get its supply from?

[youngsyr]

Do you mean the LC-1? If so then it's got its own ground (common ground on a chocolate block for all the LC-1 grounds and then separate ground cable direct to battery) and it's on a switched live from the stereo area, IIRC.

The narrowband lambda gets its power and ground from the loom that presumably comes from the ECU?

[youngsyr]

Right, tried to do some logging today and had nothing but problems. :(

I charged my (car) battery overnight and it was fully charged for the run and I disconnected my stereo amp.

However, Evoscan itself tends to drop out every 30 seconds or so, but at least this time I was managing to get some runs with some even at WOT.

The problem now is the LC-1, Evoscan will pick it up fine when on idle and for a bit of cruise, but the second I go wide open throttle, Evoscans drops it and won't pick it back up again until Evoscan is closed and reopened, or at times the laptop is restarted.

Is this still a power problem??? :confused:

[GrayW]

Have you tried logging without the WB connected to the laptop?

[youngsyr]

Have you tried logging without the WB connected to the laptop?

Yep, tried it yesterday on an Evo VII and Evoscan still dropped out on the WOT runs. :(

Also tried to log the WB with Logworks, it too dropped it on WOT and said to check connection and power.

The connection must be fine, as I can shut it all down, start all the software up again and it picks the WB up straightaway.

[Cossie1]

Are you using a serial - usb converter or a usb extension lead for the wideband ?

[GrayW]

Is a different laptop being used tha before, as Evoscan and the LC1 dropping out are two different problems.

[youngsyr]

Are you using a serial - usb converter or a usb extension lead for the wideband ?


I'm using both a serial-usb converter and a usb extension lead for the wideband.

[youngsyr]

Is a different laptop being used tha before, as Evoscan and the LC1 dropping out are two different problems.

This is the second laptop I've used, but the first one also had problems with Evoscan dropping the logging connection and the wideband connection.

[Cossie1]

I'm using both a serial-usb converter and a usb extension lead for the wideband.

Ditch the usb extension lead, and that might just fix the wideband issue.

Had a similar one myself, it worked fine for months, then all of a sudden started to drop out for no reason, then it just refused to connect at all.

Removed the extension, it and has been perfect ever since.

[youngsyr]

Ditch the usb extension lead, and that might just fix the wideband issue.

Had a similar one myself, it worked fine for months, then all of a sudden started to drop out for no reason, then it just refused to connect at all.

Removed the extension, it and has been perfect ever since.

I'll give it a go Russ, but I'm not sure if the cable will reach where it needs to be without it.

[Cossie1]

I'll give it a go Russ, but I'm not sure if the cable will reach where it needs to be without it.

Yeh mine is tight, it's ok if I put the lappy on the passanger seat, but if I am sat in the seat with laptop on me lap (on dyno), I am lucky that I have a usb port on the right of the lappy so it just reaches still.